Barolo


Richard Neidich

I had a 1997 Pio Cesare Barolo 2 years ago (I know, infanticide) but did not take notes.

IMHO I do not think one can adequately buttess Barolo (or, for that matter, Nebbiolo, the grape) by comapring it with Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. Furthermore, Nebbiolo finds differing statements in Barolo, Barbera, Gattinara and Nebbiolo d'Alba (and other wines which I have not had the good fortune to taste, for instance Ghemme). I really do remember having a glbutt of a very jammy Nebbiolo from Lombardy (not Piemonte) 4-5 years ago in a small eatery in Rome as well - but since I find no reference to Lombardian Nebbiolo elsewhere, I sometimes think I was mistaken. And aren't the wines in Valtellina made from Nebbiolo as well? There must be others - even if not among the DOC's.

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The Nebbiolo does usually impart a brownish tinge to the rim of the pour in all these cases (which spreads with ageing, in my experience). The grape also gives its wines a powerful balance between acidity, tannins and "extraktstoffe". The clbuttic nose of violets tends to be common across all Nebbiolo-based wines that I have tried.

With Barolo especially, I feel, the ageing in wood imparts it a typical structure. I also find Barolo often (not always) to be heavier on tannins, saddle, tobacco and mud than Barbaresco - which has, to my palate, a "lightness of being". Not lightness, which I taste, as an example, in Gattinara, just a kind of elegance and finesse.

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And of course, even Gattinara's lightness is only in comparison to Barolo and Barbaresco. In fact, it is this "lightness", which makes it - for my money - to be more accessible, especially when not very old.

Depending on the producer and vintage, fruit and spice characteristics of a Barolo vary. In fact the wine is typically such a plant that I have sometimes sniffed at a poured glbutt for an hour or more (no kidding) without sipping. Just could not bring myself to sip it - it felt like licking a Rafaelo fresco!

I have once had a 22-year old Barbaresco (thanks to a distress sale, not a lottery win) and it was one of the most exhilirating experience in wine-drinking that I have ever had. But I have not had a Barolo that old, yet. I am keeping a few though - at least for 3-4 years.

Also, wit regards to greenness, I remember someone telling me to air a Barolo or a Barbaresco for 40-60 minutes per year of age. I do not think the person meant this advice for 20 year old wines though.

Cheers


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