TN: '89 Meyney at Kittle House Last night was the 5th anniversary of our first kiss, and I took Betsy to Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua, where she had somehow never eaten. I used to think of the Kittle House as great list but only moderately good food, but a visit last year showed a turnaround in the kitchen. While the Kittle House winelist is probably the best north of the city, the fact that this anniversary fell on a Monday, when they offer free corkage, appealed to the cheapskate in me. About 2 hours before dinner I double-decanted a bottle of 1989 Meyney. A moment's concern- is that TCA- before deciding it was just the Cordier funk. We were shown to a window table with a nice view. Betsy ordered the "just-warm" Nantucket oysters with roe (tobiko I think) and cr=E8me fr=E2iche. I got crabmeat and smoked trout cakes (with a avocado mayo). Both appetizers were tasty. I ordered Betsy a half-glbutt of the 2002 Brocard Pebreast Chablis. More fruit-driven than mineral, but excellent acidity and a nice clean finish, no sign of oak. B-B+ I had a half-glbutt of the 2004 Terredora Falanghina. Very floral nose, white fruit on the palate with a nuttiness to the finish. Balanced acidity (not as zippy as the Pebreast Chablis). long finish. B+ We had an amuse of gazpacho with warm goat cheese foam that we enjoyed. On to the 1989 Meyney (St. Estephe). Waiter had put it back in a decanter, and brought to the table with nice stems. Nose still seems slightly off at first, but by the time our main courses came whatever that was - not TCA- had blown off. Full and rich, a bit softer in both tannins and acidity than I remembered. Nose of cbuttis and cedar, ripe blackcurrant fruit dominates on the palate. But not a fruit plant, there's some restraint there, as well as notes of earth, leather, and chocolate. A pleasant herbiness emerges with time. A--B+ Betsy enjoyed her loin of lamb , accompanied by potatoes roasted w-coriander and a spinach puree. I had the very good "Steak & Eggs", a filet topped with a quail egg and accompanied by sunchokes, fingelrling potatoes, shiitake puree, and carrots. We also had a very good side of broccoli rabe w-garlic. Betsy seldom orders chocolate, but went for a "Valrhona purse ", warm chocolate in a puff pastry wrap. I enjoyed a cheese plate (manchego, pecorino, garrotxa). Nice night with nice service and very good food. =20 Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 
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