TN: Cbuttoulet night at Solano Cellars


A recently inaugurated tradition in our household is to repair to a local wine shop-bistro (Solano Cellars) for a Friday evening tasting-meal. This week was their annual cbuttoulet night. As cbuttoulet is one of my guilty pleasures, we found ourselves seated at a table for an early meal that included a salad and light dessert along with paired wines.

With a salad of watercress, Belgian endive, Cara Cara oranges and walnuts, dressed with a walnut oil-citrus dressing:

Garretson 2003 Roussanne ($28) color: golden yellow nose: initially reticent (served too cold), later showing apricot and pineapple palate: rich, almost thick, bursting with apricot and pink grapefruit with underlying notes of tropical fruit

We had the 2002 last year at the winery, but this was far more impressive. Deep and full-bodied with plenty of fruit, it held up well with the salad (a 3 on the Hoare scale). Though I've never had the Beaucastel VV version, this was the best Roussanne I've tasted to date.

With the cbuttoulet of duck confit, garlic sausage and flageolet beans (very good, BTW, if not so good as the one I make):

Gilles Robin 2001 Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet nose: oak, blueberries, game and leather palate: smooth entry, medium body, jammy fruit with flavors similar to those in the nose and a slightly oaky finish

I'd call this a "New World" style Crozes. It was a good example of its style, but the new oak did put me off a bit. It was, however, not a good match with the cbuttoulet (2 on the Hoare scale) as it lacked the tannins to compete. To try and help this situation out, we got a glbutt of:

La Bastide St. Vincent 2002 Gigondas ($24) nose: a touch of alcohol, cedar and red berry fruit palate: medium body with typical Gigondas herbaceousness, moderately tannic (hooray!) with good fruit

A Gigondas from the disastrous 2002 vintage? It came highly endorsed by the staff, and indeed was a pleasant enough wine. The more tannic Gigondas did indeed show far better with the cbuttoulet, though I was left wishing that they'd found a Madiran to try with it...

Since they served a very humane portion of the cbuttoulet, there was just enough room left for the dessert of pear-hazelnut frangipane tart with an apricot-Sauternes sauce. With it, they served:

French wine glut heading to distillery
I didn't say "quality," I theorized that the lack of varietal information frightens the consumer. The A.D.D. nature of the harried consumer doesn't lend itself to motivated information gathering -- and all I'm saying...
French wine glut heading to distillery
On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 20:35:03 GMT, Bill Loftin Interesting. While the easiest interpretation of this might be relating it purely to supply-demand functions...

Henriot Souverain NV Brut ($35) nose: toast and apples palate: fine mousse, very toasty with a creamy texture

French wine glut heading to distillery
First of all, let's be clear what they're talking about distilling- it's not Ch. Lafite...

A bit too toasty for my taste, but otherwise quite nice. Yet another example, however, of the mistaken idea of pairing Brut Champagne with dessert. Still, both were nice enough on their own (2-3 on the Hoare scale).

Overall, fun evening at one of my favorite small retailers. The Garretson Roussanne was definitely my WOTN, but all the wines were enjoyable. The pairings were not ideal, but certainly adequate.

Mark Lipton (once again with a stable Usenet feed)


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