TN: Domane Wachau Smaragd, plus cheap party wines

Over a couple days, a 375ml of 2001 Ch. Siaurac (Lalande de Pomerol). Light to medium bodied Merlot, light notes of earth and cedar-chest on the nose, moderate acidity, could use a bit more oomph to the blackberry and black plum fruit. Not bad for a $7 half, though. B-B- =20 Saturday we went to a friend's birthday party. Neither Susan nor her partner really drink, while I knew they'd have wine I felt I'd be happier with something I chose. So in addition to some smoked trout mousse and mango-chutney cheddar balls out of self-preservation we carried some 2004 Iche (Ch. d'Oupia) "Les Heretiques " Vin de Pays de l'H=E9rault. This is a perennial QPR wine, and even though the price is creeping towards $8 it still offers very good value. Dark berry and plum fruit, some herbes de provence and anise. Just enough tannin and acidity to give it body, fun wine. B

But my bottles were quickly drained, and I sampled the rest of the offerings: There was a 2005 Beaujolais Nouveau (Chat-something, with a cat on label) that was actually a fair representative of the genre- simple, juicy, grapey. B--C+

2003 Cartlidge & Brown Chardonnay A bit off-dry , mango and canned peach fruit, a bit of oak. Simple but not offensive. B-

2003 Wyndham Estate Bin 555 Shiraz Soft - well, flabby - grapey with soft jammy red fruit. Short finish. Unflawed but unattractive, at least to me (others were knocking it down without complaint). C+

Sunday we picked up our Christmas tree, and got a couple lobsters while we were at it. Betsy made Michel Ricard's lobster burgers (which are actually lobster-scallop) with ginger-lemon mayo and tomato confit. I chose the 2002 Dom=E4ne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel (Wachau). Rather austere at first, then opens wide. Very crisp- bracing acidity. Big body, with long finish. At first it's all citrus-lemony, then some peach and spice aromas peek their heads out. At one point I'm reminded of my mom's "Russian tea" (tea with cloves, cinnamon, and I think Tang!) from the 70s. This needs time, but a nice wine. B+ I have to say that I think Domane Wachau might edge the Produttori del Barbaresco as the best co-op in the world (La Chablisienne just isn't as consistent imho).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. =20