TN: Donnhoffs and du Tertres and an old Barbaresco surprise

Friday Betsy made a light dinner, vegetarian tacos. I served the 2002 D=F6nnhoff Riesling QbA (Nahe). Betsy says "this is really good" and I have to agree. White peaches, a little cherry note, stony finish. Sweet without being cloying, very nice $14 wine. B+

The next night we have some friends for dinner. I pick up Chris, Matt, & Kristen at station, we go to our home and then are joined by our friends Marc & Annabelle. Appetizers are canapes with piquillo peppers and anchovies, plus some cheese-stuffed dates (a bit ofa miscalculation on my part, I used some Pyrennes goat cheese, something a little less dry would have melted better).

With appetizers, the 1999 Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet. Nicely balanced, some fat but with enough acidity to keep lively, light oak and nut aromas over a core of white & tropical fruit. This is no showstopper, but a competent and pleasant representation of a village level wine. B-B+.

Matt had brought a 2003 D=F6nnhoff Oberh=E4user Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett. This might actually stop a show. I've been hesitant re '03 Germans because of acidity worries. This one shows sweet Fuji apples with a hint of peaches, an edge of spice. Long mineral finish. Acidity nicely balances the light sweetness, no worries on this one. Clbutty, clbuttic Nahe Riesling. A-

First course was a creamy mushroom -yellow foot and shiitake- dish (I think the recipe is from Bill Spohn) in filo shells. I planned this as a dish for Burgundy, and served the 1999 Fran=E7oise & Denis Clair "Clos de la Comme" Santenay 1er Cru. This was pretty shy at first, showing some earth but more structure than fruit. Betsy gave a thumbs down, and I wasn't really arguing. But a glbutt much later in the evening showing a rather balanced midweight Burg, with none of the rusticity I buttociate with Santenay. A B- during dinner, B+ later.

I also like Nebbiolo with 'shrooms, and opened the 1980 Abbona "Vigna Faset" Barbaresco Riserva. I didn't have high hopes for this - mediocre vintage, middling producer. Shows how much I know. A bit of browning, but still some clear cherry fruit. Nose has some tar and roses (Chris also mentions a licorice note- I hadn't but do once he points out). Ideally, this probably should have been drunk 5-8 years ago, but still alive and still enjoyable. A--B+

Main course was leg of lamb with an anchovy-garlic rub, wrapped in bacon. Sides were rice with peas and green beans. We had a little mini-vertical with the lamb: =20 1998 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)- pretty nice nose of dark fruit with a tobacco edge. Nice flavors, but maybe a tad diluted. I also found the finish a bit short. Still some slightly green tannins. My guess is it'll improve over a few years, but this will never be an exciting wine. B =20 1999 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)- Herby nose, ripe blackcurrant fruit. Medium-bodied, nice balance of acidity, fruit, and light tannins. Some earth and cigarbox after awhile. I don't this is going to improve much, but for drinking now it's pretty clbuttic for a bargain Bordeaux. B-B+

1982 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)-closed at first, then opened quietly. Ripe roasted red fruit, some autumn leaves, a little cedar. That roasted note isn't my favorite, and again this is a wine that would have been well-served by consumption a few years before. But holding on. B-B+ =20 After salad we took a short cellar tour, where I THOUGHT I grabbed a '98 Baumard. Later Matt pointed out that was actually the 2000 Baumard Quarts du Chaume. Apple and apricot fruit, with a light note of citrus peel. Nice acid backbone. Surprisingly good for a so-so vintage. B+

Chris had brought the 2001 Lafon (Sauternes). My palate was fading by this point, but this is pretty primary at the moment, honey and apricot in a sweet style. Enough acidity to mostly balance the sweet. B-B+ =20 The dessert wines were served with cheeses (Jasper Hill Farm Bayley Hazen Blue, a 5 year Gouda, and a heart-shaped Pyrenees goat cheese whose name has escaped me, though I know Coeur was part of it) and Marc's chocolate mousse with orange.

Really nice night, the wines good enough as a group that I had enough was REALLY glad I was already at home. Nice group, generous friends (Matt had also brought a Ceretto white -Arneis?- that never got served). =20 Tonight Betsy made a version of the Singapore noodle dish, Char Kway Teow. There was some of each D=F6nnhoff left, went well with the spice. The Qba was still holding on, the Kabinett was even better, with more a note of orangeade than I had noted before.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency