TN: Macon, GruVe, Gloria, CdCastillon, and sips of Palmer and Salon


tn LAdies and Gentlemen
welcome to the match of the year. In the left corner we have ... FRANCE! The match is in three flights - Chard, PInot Noir, and Syrah-Shiraz ... all...

Betsy has worked the last 3 nights (with rehearsals and a matinee beforehand), so I've been on my own. Too lazy to shop, I'm been denuding our freezer of meat.

With some veal simmered in white wine, the 2002 Manciat Macon-Charnay Vieilles Vignes. This was a surprise for me - instead of the crisp clean Chardonnay I expected, this came across much bigger, with a bit of vanilla-butterscotch. There is ample acidity, but this is more fruit and oak driven than I expected. More like a Meursault to my mind than a Macon. Nice minerally finish, a very nice wine, just not what I expected. B++

Sbutticaia, La Lagune, Mann, Felton Road
Regular gathering of a group that likes to match bottles looking for an occasion to be opened with good food. No specific theme this time around. 1996 Lanson...

With lamb chops, the 2002 Gloria (St Julien) from 375 ml. Ripe and forward for a 2002, there's red and black currant fruit, with noticable toasty oak that turns cedary with air and time. A little tannic at the moment, but a nice showing. Wish I had grabbed when Zachys had for $18, but still a deal elsewhere in low $20s. B+

With roast chicken, the 2004 Schloss Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Gruner Veltliner (Langenlois). Nice green apple and green du Puy lentil character, just a touch of white pepper. Clearly GruVe, but unfortunately a bit dilute. Light-bodied, I just wish there was a little more there. B-B-

Over several nights, the 2000 Sainte-Colombe (Cotes de Castillon). Oak has settled down in this, and tannins too. Nice ripe round red fruit, a pleasant if uncomplicated Right Banker. B

TN: 2 Barbaresco, 1 CdR, 1 Dao, 1 St. Julien
Monday Betsy made chicken with shallots and madeira sauce, and we opened the 2003 Guigal Cotes du Rhone. Hey, a 2003 that isn't flabby. Nice raspberry and blackberry...

Also stopped by Zachys yesterday. They were having a big tasting -lots of wines, with in most cases winemakers or owners in attendance. I didn't have a lot of time, but visited a few wines: 1995 Salon - yeasty, with a chalkiness that reminded me of GC Chablis. Approachable, but needs time. A couple of '04 Kim Crawfords were ok. Archery Summit: 2002 Red Hills PN and 2003 Renegade Ridge PN. Both pretty heavy-handed with the oak. I refer the '02 Red Hills which seemed to have better acidity than the rather flabby '03 Renegade Ridge. At $70 & $60 each I'm definitely not a buyer. I did enjoy the Palmer table. The 2003 Alter Ego reminded me of the 2000, a less structured style than the Palmer, but a nice fleshy full Margaux. The 2003 Palmer was also fruit-forward and round, though not in the least flabby. Some tannins need to integrate, but this has the making of good Bordeaux, not the caricature overripe wine I feared. The 2002 showed much as it did at a 2002 horizontal - tannic, lots of red fruit, surprising acidity. Needs lots of time. The 2001 was a little easier to appreciate right now- the tannins seemed finer-smoother, there's a real spicy note to the blackberry and raspberry fruit. But the best one on the table was the 1996 - big and brooding, but with grace.

WS's 1995 CA Cab retrospective CAN YOU BELIEVE IT
What is Laube trying to do here?? Many of the great CA cabs from a...

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.


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