TN: No ABC tonight, almost all Chardonnay

(I usually don't let notes build this much! sorry for 4 threads in a row.)

Sunday we had more friends over, for a Chardonnay-fest. Last month over dinner with my friend Dolores she was saying she didn't like Chardonnay. Lots of people don't, but I got the feeling in conversation she had only seen a small portion of the possible styles. I said I'd hold a dinner, and we invited some other friends to join us last night. Appetizers were smoked trout and proscuitto with figs drizzled with balsamic. Starter wines were:

2004 Babich Unwooded Chardonnay Juicy melon and apple fruit, a touch of crisp citrus on the finish. Not complex, but quite tasty (and screwcapped to boot!) B-B+

2002 JP Brun Terres Dorres Beaujolais Blanc I'm getting down to the last of these,and it's sad -I'll miss them. Sweet ripe apple and pear fruit, a touch of chalky minerality, clean finish. B+

First sitdown course was a reprise of James Boyce's lobster salad, with corn and heirloom tomatoes. Betsy doesn't usually like to do the same recipe twice in a short period, but this was so good, and the corn and tomato season is so short, that this was worth repeating (as an appetizer). Lobsters were good, but it was the yellow corn (farmers' market lady said it was from Japanese seed, but I missed name) and tomatoes (a purple, a zebra, and an orange one) that make this sing. One participant doesn't eat seafood, so he got an ear of corn atop the corn saut=E9 and tomatoes.

2000 Pinson 'Mont-de-Milieu' Chablis 1er Bigger style of Chablis, I think I might pick this as Cote d'Or blind. There's just a hint of oak in the background, a ripe and rather ready Chablis with some flinty mineral. With time there's a pleasantly herby sense to this. I like even if it's not completely typical. A-

1998 Ch. Montelena Chardonnay (Napa) Crisper than most California Chards, this has snappy Granny Smith apple acidity and a bit of oak. Followed through the night, this develped more complexity as the oak faded into the background. Very good. B+-A

Main course was chicken breasts in a (dried) chanterelle & chardonnay cream sauce.

2001 Fran=E7oise and Denis Clair "Les Murgers des Dents de Chien" St.-Aubin 1er Cru Another favorite I'm sorry to see go. Wet rocks and crisp pear fruit, there a gingery spice and a hint of toasty oak on the finish. Got most votes for wine of the night, though I narrowly favored the Chablis. A--B+

2002 Foley Chardonnay (Santa Rita Hills) - apparently I made a face as I tried this. Lots of oak sitting on top of the tropical fruit. There's a funny "I can't believe it's not butter" margarine note. I find it woody and overthe top, but at least a couple of people (one a KJ drinker) like it a lot. C

2001 Sarah's Vineyards Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley ) - Dolores brought this. I'm about to consult with my Californian wife of where Santa Clara Valley is when I see the winery has a Gilroy address. Luckily there's no garlic in this wine, and I'm surprised to think it pretty good. Some green apple, citrus, and canteloupe; a bit of oak but noting obtrusive like the Foley. Not too soft, moderate finish. B

There's some aged Gouda and cheddar (as well as some Camembert for Alex) on the table. With the harder reds I try the lone red of the night, the 1998 Aurore Gauthier Chateauneuf du Pape. I had opened at beginning of evening, and was sad to taste a wine that seemed past it- thin, soft, with light baked-roasted cherry fruit. But 3 hours open had done this a world of good. Medium-bodied CdP with sweet cherries and blackberries, some earth and herbs. Quite popular around the table, B+

Jim had brought a homemade peach pie that drew raves, as did Betsy's cooking, especially as she was basically one-handed. A fun night, and I think people learned a lot re the variety of styles. Dolores the Chard-hater was writing down names for her next store visit. Every wine had at least one person championing it as among the best of the evening.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.