TN: wines in the heatJaboulet, Bouchard, Muga, Protocolo

A hot week in NY. Thursday Betsy made vegetarian tacos, which we enjoyed on the patio. Wine was the 2004 Muga Rosado. Clean, light, and easy, but a bit empty on the finish. Light color and light body. I'm shocked to read 13.5%abv. Nice to have a $8 refreshing ros=E9 on a warm night, but I'd rather spend the extra $2-4 for the Oupia or Il Mimo ros=E9s. B-B-

Friday Betsy marinated duck breast in soy and 5 spice, then we seared it on grill before doing a slow low roast in over. Served with a sauce of grilled figs, pepper, thyme and red wine. The wine was the 1996 Jaboulet "Thalabert" Crozes-Hermitage. - light on opening, but with interesting roasted meat aromas. With some air, noticably gained weight - not a lot fo tannins, but nice warm plum fruit and game and leather nuances. Lots of acidity for a red, but that felt good with the food. Nice wine- mature but no hurry. Late 90s Thalaberts haven't been as good as '80s-'90 Thalabert IMHO, but still probably the highlight of the Jabloulet line for me. B+-A-

Wine used in marinade was 2002 Protocolo. I've had mixed results with this producer in past, but had seen good notes on this one from folks whose tastes I respect. A little spice over modest red fruit, not bad but a little grapey for me. Crisp acidity, but attenuated finish. OK, but I think in the $5-6 Spanish sweepstakes I'll opt for the basic Borsao instead. Although lightly chilled it made a nice sipper on next day. B-

Saturday we grilled a whole red snapper stuffed with herbs, with some grilled fennel and asparagus. A breeze was up and it was a nice night (some thunder, some sprinkles, but the table's umbrella kept us from running for house). Wine was the 2002 Bouchard "Les Clous" Meursault. In retrospect,I should have gone for something less lush and more crisp, maybe a NZ SB. But this match wasn't bad. The Meursault (this is a lieu-dit,not a 1er) had gone acidity, rather lush texture and nice butter-butterscotch-pear flavors. Some earth, some slightly unintegrated oak. Pretty tight at opening, best glbutt was the last. Last glbutt was rich, less oaky, deep. I'll give other bottle a couple of years. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency