TN: wines with chicken "bouillabaisse

Last night a diverse group of friends joined us for a buffet dinner. Betsy made a chicken "bouillabaisse" (a Provencal fricasee with chicken, fennel, garlic, and Pernod, with an aioli accompaniment), green beans with bacon and Roquefort, salad, and more.

My wine of choice with the stew was a rosé, based on some experiments with this recipe a couple years ago. I had purchased the 2003 Clos Roche Blanche Pineau d'Aunis Rosé (Touraine) in early summer based on my good experience with the '02, then after some very derogatory comments on another group, never opened it during Summer Rosé Prime Time. But this was only rosé other than a '93 Tondonia in my cellar, and I opened. Hey, maybe a step behind the '02 but I think this isn't bad at all. A little sweetness, but decent acidity for a hot vintage and a nice interplay of strawberry, mineral, and basil aromas. Not bad at all, and the hint of sweetness went well with the spiciness of the bouillabaisse (never asked Betsy what she did differently, this had some heat to it). B-B+

Of course, rosés aren't for everyone, so some other wines made their appearances: 2003 Andre Iché "Les Hérétiques" (VdP de l'Hérault) . Riper, rounder, and redder than previous vintage, with more a red plum note than the '02's blackberry fruit. Some flowers and a hint of leather on the nose, a crowdpleaser. Not as good as the '02, but still a QPR winner at $7. B

1999 Ch. La Gaffeliere (St. Emilion) This is a chateau that I've liked in a rather traditional lean style. This is indeed lean, but also rather short. There's a clbuttic Right Bank nose of black plums and cedary oak, but the short finish (and a little dilution) make this at most an OK wine, but probably a poor value. B-B-

1999 Zind-Humbrecht Gueberschwihr Riesling It's all the rage to dismiss ZH, and I think in general Olivier Humbrecht does better with the aromatic varietals, but this is a nicely balanced wine. I thought a bit sweet at first, but finishes rather dry (though not austere). Definite smoke and petrol above the apple-lemon fruit. B+

1999 Westerly Vineyards Merlot (Santa Ynez) This was a gift. I admit to scepticism going in, while I'm no Miles "I'm not drinking any Merlot" type, I do find that Merlot from warmer climates seldom rings my bell (I think Santa Ynez is warm? Maybe I'm wrong- I'm not sure if that's more Paso Robles or Santa Barbara). In any case my bells remained unrung - this is intense deep Merlot, and fairly restrained with the oak, but the ripe sweetness (probably technically dry, but impression of sweetness from the ripeness) and some dense tannins make it seem heavy to me. Still, I'd try again, though next time with a big rare steak. A B last night, but maybe potential for more in a better situation.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale

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