Young Vacqueyras, old Fixin

Visit from Adele's aunt and cousin this weekend, while furiously running around for young Gillian's first piano compebreastion (she won the regionals, now we'll see about the nationals...) meant keeping meals simple, but trying to do good stuff too.

With double lamb chops grilled over apple wood fire, sauteed potatoes and beans, '98 Clos des Cazaux Cuvée des Tempiers Vacqueyras. A big forward nose if a little simple, bramble and spice. Pretty long in the mouth but tannins still very angular and a disturbing green stemmy overtone, otherwise showing clbuttic Vacqueyras tar, black fruits, herbs. With lots of air the stemminess diminished but I didn't have time to open far enough in advance. My conclusion is that this needs at least 5 years, may be a little sleepy still, but will hopefully integrate and come around.

Post-compebreastion, rambunctious 8-year olds demand cepes, lots of cepes. So, 500 gm flash-frozen finest out of the freezer, with guinea hen breasts, sacrifice a half bottle of Telmont champagne, a little rosemary from the garden, and finish with some local cream, we sit down 20 minutes later. '85 Mongeard-Mugneret Fixin. The definition of "brick" colored. Ah, it's got that big chocolate cherry burgundy nose, with just a little skunk. Fantastic, subtle pinot layers in the front and middle, but showing venerable in the faded finish. As silky a Fixin as you're ever likely to see, was it better a few years ago? Call me necrophiliac if you like, but I enjoyed every wrinkle.