iso88591qTN:_Gr=FCnhauser_Herrenberg_Kabinett

*1998 Von Schubert Maximin Gr=FCnhauser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Ruwer (11-23-2005)*

Very light, slightly grbutty but bright yellow with the just the most minute amount of visible spritz. Nose is slightly reductive and requires about 20 minutes to clean up, initially yielding a good dose of flint, moving into slate, smoke, and a tiny petrol hint as it begins to oxegynate and open up. Fruit on the nose is primarily crisp but round apple, with essence of sweet white field flowers growing throughout the hour and a half that it is open. Palate is not spritzig at all, but shows sweet apple and crisp pear fruit up front. Initially, the mid-palate is light and a little weak, but fills out nicely over the first 30 minutes or so. The flinty, smoky, slatey mineral is a nice energizing streak from entry to finish. Initially, this seems a little unbalanced toward the sweet side, but time seems to cure all. As the mid-palate picks up weight, the acid perks up and this takes on a refreshing, cool water aspect. Don't mistake me; it's not watery, just refreshing like kabinetten should be. Not a blockbuster, but not scrawny. Lithe and dancerlike so that you don't notice that there is a bit of real sinew underneath the sweet freshness. Just entering its drinking window, I think this will continue to blossom and would benefit from a few more years of sleep. Again, not a showpiece but a beautiful light romp down the slopes and into the meadow where a little field grbutt joins the surprisingly long finish.

Jim