quickie: '88 Volnays

Max Hauser

Indeed, Max, it is for this reason that I believe we've been so successful at securing them at auction in the last year, thereby filling in a major gap in our wine collecting. My vision is of aging Burg-o-philes putting these wines up for auction in an act of despair ("My vision has gone, I'm on dialysis and this damn Musigny still tastes like lemon juice!!"). Of course, some others might be Parker Point ChasersT who mistakenly buttumed that these wines would one day magically morph into Russian River Pinot lookalikes. For the record, we've also opened some Nuits GCs fairly recently, and some were indeed quite tight, but the '88 Dujac Clos de la Roche was arguably the most memorable Burgundy of my life. The Chevillon Vaucrains, however, may give the de Montille a run for the money... And also for the record, I've begun to clbutt Roty in the same camp: will his wines ever fully open?

Would you like me to launch in to "La Marseillaise" now, Max? :P In all seriousness, our cellar is now over 60% French, though alas Burgundy makes up a small proportion thereof.

Mark Lipton